Timing and Surf

I have spent over two-thirds of my life as a surfer, and never thought that life would get to busy to make time to get into the water.  The last few years have proven that wrong in a big way.  Looking back it is hard to figure out exactly what changed.  The biggest thing with surfing is the need to be completely flexible in timing so that when the swell, wind, tide and free time all converge it becomes the obvious choice.  It seems that finding that convergence, or making it happen, is harder than it used to be for some reason, even living about two blocks from the beach.  At least there has been a bit of a replacement with the bike.  I get the glide, and the benefit of transportation, and the convenience of the bike being there when I want.  I still miss getting in the water.

Today the swell was good, really good, but the wind was howling, and the choice of getting out for a bit at lunch fell back to the bike, not a bad thing at all in the big picture.

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2 Responses to Timing and Surf

  1. doug peterson says:

    The swell, wind & tide converge, and you have to be in a position to take the time. That works when you’re young, with no real responsibilities. A family & career changes that dynamic, as you’ve observed. The really fun part starts when the kids want to get into the water.

    Surfers live to be in the water; everything else is secondary. Then there are people who surf but have more complex lives. And I can attest that as one ages, the water gets colder every year, and the sessions get shorter. The bike has pretty much taken over that niche.

    dougP

    • Rob says:

      I can concur that the water is getting colder, visiting Hawaii last year did not help my drive to get back out here at the point. The surf was primary for a very long time. I know we will be in the water a lot more as out little girl gets bigger. She is drawn to the water like a magnet. Just like with the Bobike Mini we are counting the days.

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